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A question for Toyota owners

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Killer Queen

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If you have or have had a Toyota Avensis you may be able to assist.

We have a V reg Avensis which drives like a dream, however, the issue we have is intermittent and involves starting the car.

No problems until Last Saturday went to start it nothing. Jump started it and took it to the dealership who checked the battery. Nothing had been left on. No problems until late yesterday and the same thing happened.

What I would like to ask the goaters is

Have you had this and did you get a resolution
Do you have a service manual preferably in pd f format and would not mind sharing

We have heard that it might be a loose connection, a relay, or starter motor.

Any help greatfully received.
 
Saw a car with a similar problem.

The motorised telescopic ariel was bent and it didn't fully retract when the ignition was switched off. The motor kept was constantly trying to run.
 
Killer Queen said:
If you have or have had a Toyota Avensis you may be able to assist.

We have a V reg Avensis which drives like a dream, however, the issue we have is intermittent and involves starting the car.

No problems until Last Saturday went to start it nothing. Jump started it and took it to the dealership who checked the battery. Nothing had been left on. No problems until late yesterday and the same thing happened.

What I would like to ask the goaters is

Have you had this and did you get a resolution
Do you have a service manual preferably in pd f format and would not mind sharing

We have heard that it might be a loose connection, a relay, or starter motor.

Any help greatfully received.
Click to expand...

Did the dealer check by using a battery discharge tester or purely a volt meter? Once jump started the battery will, once charged by alternator be reading 12 ish volts. A current discharge test will indicate the internal condition of the battery.

It's cold, batteries don't like cold and any shortfalls will be highlighted.

I have had the same problem this week with a Mazda and initially suspected power draw with the ignition off. Using an Ammeter in series with the battery showed no current draw with the ignition off, but 6Volts in the battery. Jump start and it's OK for a few days then dead again.

Changed the battery and it's been fine, £45 for a battery is about 30 minutes garage labour.

Good luck.
 
John Lloyd said:
Did the dealer check by using a battery discharge tester or purely a volt meter? Once jump started the battery will, once charged by alternator be reading 12 ish volts. A current discharge test will indicate the internal condition of the battery.

It's cold, batteries don't like cold and any shortfalls will be highlighted.

I have had the same problem this week with a Mazda and initially suspected power draw with the ignition off. Using an Ammeter in series with the battery showed no current draw with the ignition off, but 6Volts in the battery. Jump start and it's OK for a few days then dead again.

Changed the battery and it's been fine, £45 for a battery is about 30 minutes garage labour.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

Ditto the above. V-reg, is it still the original battery? If so, then it's done well. Plus, I don't know what the weather has been like where you are, or if the car is garaged. If it's outside in the cold 'n' wet, then the battery won't like it, and won't turn through all that thick oil. If your battery terminal connections have been checked and are good, then the battery is prime suspect. I had a similar problem a few years ago, and thought that the engine was going to leap out of the compartment after I fitted a new battery. Good luck.
 
For those that replied in respect of the battery test, this was a discharge and battery health check this came back with the battery being 80%.

Thanks for all the help thus far and will keep you posted.
 
When the switch goes you get nothing but of you wiggle the switch a bit it works.

A clicking sound would usually indicate a flat battery as there isn't enough power to turn the starter but enough to engage the solenoid.

My battery lasted about 9 1/2 years before dying.

Go to partco as you'll get RAF discount on spares.
 
Concur with the rest. I have an old Carina E (brought at Flamingo Motors in Limassol in 95 and still going strong), and had exactly the same happen to me. Change the battery and all is happiness and light! Apparently, the poles erode over time but not in such a way that your battery light will come on, ie trickle charging. Eventually it just gives way.
 
Mate had something very similar, with the addition that when the battery got so low all the electrics would go off. New battery, and about a week later same recurring faults. Turned out it was one of the fuses blown...not one of the poxy 10 amp jobbies around the glovebox kind of area, but one of the big 50a things in`t engine bay. It had blown because of an earthing fault. Dirt cheap fix when you know. Wasn`t for him mind, seeing as the garage replaced the battery, then the alternator, then the alternator again, then had a look at the battery...
 
On the battery theme still, have you cleaned the terminals? If not then just get some scotchbrite and give them a good clean, then clean the clamps that attach to the battery as well.

When the engine is running you should see a voltage of around 13.8 to 14.5V across the battery, (that would show that the alternator is working). When you crank the engine the voltage should remain fairly high, (above 10V at least), if not then the internal resistance of the battery may be too high.
 
just out of interest is it the vvti engined version, if so make sure that the engine block has been changed by toyota as it has a habit of leaking oil through causing a very expensive and time consuming repair if not.....thats why i got rid of mine in the end!
 
The car was taken to the place form whence it came new Battery sorted.

However a new Key has just had to be purchased. Oh well.

Thanks again guys
 
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