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Freeing seized bolts

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Entropy

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[FONT=&quot]Can anyone offer any advise to a struggling goater. I have just spent the morning sat in the sodding rain trying to change the brake disks on my Mk3 Golf. The problem that I have got is that I need to remove the caliper-mounting bracket but the bolts just will not move.

I don't have an oxy/acetylene torch so I can't heat it up the mount to 'crack' the bolts and 2hrs soaking in WD40 didn't improve things either.[/FONT]
 
WD40 is more of a lubricating oil. What you need is penetrating oil to get right into the threads.
 
Entropy said:
[FONT=&quot]Can anyone offer any advise to a struggling goater. I have just spent the morning sat in the sodding rain trying to change the brake disks on my Mk3 Golf. The problem that I have got is that I need to remove the caliper-mounting bracket but the bolts just will not move.

I don't have an oxy/acetylene torch so I can't heat it up the mount to 'crack' the bolts and 2hrs soaking in WD40 didn't improve things either.[/FONT]
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I am not sure what your engineering skills are like, have you tried a socket/ratchet and somebody else using a hammer to hit the ratchet directly at the bolt to shock it while turning?
 
Try to use a proper hex headed spanner, it won't slip as easy ss the multi point ring spanners, that way you can get more torque on it.

If you've got room a jacking handle over the spanner will give you more leverage!

Seriously though, give it a good dousing in full fat coke and give it a few hours to seep in.

Worked a treat on my old sierra's engine block.
 
propersplitbrainme said:
He'll need to de-coke it afterwards though....:PDT_Xtremez_42:

I'll get the old coat............................
Click to expand...

Could put some rum and orange in with it, get more punch that way!

Yeah, I know........................... :PDT_Xtremez_31:
 
Well if all else fails and the head is rounded off, cut a groove into the head of the bolt (with a hacksaw) enough to fit a large screwdriver roughly 10" , if the screwdrivers shank is squared get an adjustable, while one person pushes the screwdriver into the slot another uses the adjustable to crack the bolt loose.

This was the failt safe way in the Nimrod if the bolts had seized in but last resort, or if you have replacement bolts then use a chisel or centre punch and hammer the bolt head anti clockwise till it frees up. Good luck
 
About £15 for a gas canister with a blow torch attachment. Try proper penetrating oil first though. I had a right mare with the filler of the gear box, tight as fook. Another trick is to try and tighten it a smidge to get some movement and then un-tighten it normally.
 
Thaks for all the advice. Having learnt the hard way I did stop before rounding the bolts but they are looking a little worse for wear.

I'll try the Plusgas route first as I can't get the tracking adjusted due to one end being seized as well.
 
Diesel is a good penetrant
Trying to tighten slightly before loosening also is one way of breaking the seal so to speak.
Usually works on all but the worst of bolts beware of heat it makes metal soft, a rounded nut is always better than a sheared bolt.
 
If it's quite a hefty looking bolt (not liable to snap off!), find / buy a longer bar for more leverage.

Don't be shy with the penetrating oil either, use loads! Try and get it right into the threads.

As someone suggested, small propane torches are cheap and I've seen them work miracles.
 
If i doubt pop down the armoury they have loads of inventive ways to free things off............................honest:PDT_Xtremez_42:
 
PlusGas is fookin brilliant. And if you are still in the mob, find a Heavy or MT Techy and ask them for some 'Eezit' (the MoD version of PlusGas). :PDT_Xtremez_06:

Failing that, get an aerosol can of these new 'Freeze-Release' products. Loctite make one, but they are about £8 for a tin. www.Cromwell.co.uk, or their many branches keep it in stock.
 
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