Mrs Ted and I are back from a trip to Sofia in Bulgaria. First a word of advice, the state of repair of the streets in Sofia may pose a risk to anyone intending to perambulate so keep an eye out for missing or broken paving stones, missing or broken grids, manhole and inspection covers, then there are various obstacles including rocks, discarded building materials, dog dirt, vehicles, bollards or parts of bollards all placed randomly on the footpath. Other than that, Sofia is great.
My favourite bar in Sofia was The Ale House, ulitsa "Hristo Belchev" 42. It doesn’t look an inviting place to visit, inside the entrance is a security guard sat by his or her own beer pump but as you go in the security guard will invite you to take the stairs down to a number of rooms in the cellar where there are booths and tables. Each table has a beer pump and meter. On the beer menu are lots of well known brands, mainly from the UK, Belgium, Czech Republic and Germany, a couple of them on draft and the rest bottled, however, all I drank here was their own unfiltered, unpasteurised house beer drawn from the tap at the table and it was really delicious! We ate here a couple of times and the food was very good. The meals didn’t always arrive at the same time though, for example, Mrs Ted’s mozzarella salad starter arrived 15 minutes before my game meatball starter, the second time we ate there the mains were similarly out of sync, no problem though as I managed to keep myself occupied with the beer tap. The staff were really nice. The music being played was tremendous as it was all from the late 70s and reminded me of Bruggen.
We visited the 1516 bar, ulitsa “Tsar Asen” 2a, as I was lead to believe they served their own house beer but all they had was a few Bulgarian mainstream brands on tap and some “international brands” in bottles so it was a bit of a disappointment. This bar is in a large cellar with sport or music on the telly. I tried some kebabs for lunch but they weren’t all that good really.
So on to the Bitburger Pub ulitsa "Stefan Karadzha" 20. This bar is in a massive cellar and is set out beer hall style. The menu looked really good and the Bitburg was delicious and refreshing so it was a contender for dinner but the atmosphere in there was really flat and we decided to dine elsewhere. Maybe on another evening the atmosphere would have been better.
Vitamin B, ulitsa "Angel Kanchev" 8. This is in a large ground floor room with ultra-modern décor which I found a bit soulless, however, the beer menu was large and had some interesting brews on offer. There were about 6 beers on draft and the rest in bottles. In addition to Bulgarian craft beers there were quite a few beers from other countries including a good number from the Danish Mikkeller brewery. This bar was comparatively expensive to other places in Sofia, I’m not sure if food was on offer, it didn’t look like it. It was run by an American chap from Los Angeles who was nice enough and helped with beer choice.
A bar I really enjoyed was Halbite Pub, ulitsa "Neofit Rilski" 72. There was a small room near the bar where we usually sat, there was also another room in the cellar and an outdoor area housed within a fully enclosed plastic awning like structure with gas heaters inside (smoking was allowed in the awning). They had about 10 draft beers including a very tasty, dark house beer and a Bulgarian craft ale by Glarus which was also very good. There was a huge range of bottled beers which included a good number of Bulgarian craft beers of which I sampled a few. The food menu looked good and we were tempted to eat there once but had already decided to return to The Ale House.
A pub I missed out on was Kanaal, bulevard "Madrid" 2. Mrs Ted had expressed a wish to visit the Serdika Center shopping mall, a little out of the centre of town. Fortunately, a direct tram ran from outside the hotel and even more fortunately, the mall is only a 10 minute walk from Kanaal. And even more fortunately than that, the mall was about a 5 minute walk from the National Museum of Military History, ulitsa "Cherkovna" 92. So, I had a very pleasant morning wandering around the museum. Outside they have tanks, artillery, missiles, armoured vehicles, aircraft and (strangely) a Trabant car. The aircraft included the MiGs from 15 to 23, an SU22, an ex-Luftwaffe Tonker, Mi 2, 8 and 24 helicopters. The inside display has 4 floors of weapons, uniforms, gongs and other military equipment, it’s all very well laid out with screens describing the exhibits in Bulgarian and English. The museum had several examples of the Czech ZB26/28, the forerunners of the Bren gun and later the tremendous LMG, with which I was allowed to arm myself at Binbrook and Bruggen, they also had some SLRs/FN FALs, it almost brought a tear to my eye. After the museum, I followed Mrs Ted round the mall then we headed to Kanaal craft beer bar but it was shut which was a bit of a disappointment but a tram ride back to Halbite cured that.
An ordinary draft Bulgarian beer in a bar from about £0.65, a bottle of domestic beer from the shop from about £0.40, both for 0.5l. In The Ale House the house draft was around £2.55 but that was for 1 litre! A 0.5l craft beer in Halbite from about £1.40 to £2.60. A craft beer in Vitamin B around £2.60 to £4.30 for 0.33l. Things were incredibly cheap in Sofia, a decent meal for two with drinks was about 20 quid. A ticket on any public transport system was £0.70. We had a day trip to Koprivshtitsa, it’s up in the mountains about 110Km from Sofia, the return train fair was about £4.25 each. Mrs Ted wanted to buy a pack of baccy as a Christmas present for a friend and was going to buy it in duty free, however, we ended up getting it from the offy near the hotel as it was only £4.25 for a 40g pack of Golden Vadge. On returning to Manchester Airport, about 30 or so customs officers were waiting for our flight, we were asked about our purchases and we explained that we had a pack of baccy and a bottle of wine, nevertheless, they still x-rayed our bags. I asked the customs person about the heavy presence and he said that fags were so cheap in Bulgaria they were expecting a large number of passengers to exceed the 800 limit that would trigger a bit of a grilling.