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Scooby's Oily Bits

  • Thread starter Thread starter scoobyroo
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Dear Scooby:

Do you know where I can source a good quality PDC sensor for a 2002 BMW 3 series touring? (E46). - Other than a my local BMW Main Stealer.

Fortunately the sensor won't need painting and I've discovered there's a bit of the bumper trim that pops off for access to the sensors so fitting should be a doddle - even for a desk-jockey Rupert like me.

What will such a sensor cost me?

cheers,

THB

Your best bet is to call Euro Car Parts on 0208 956 5050 and quote part number:- 993771091. Confirm this is the correct part, and it should cost you about £40 + VAT & shipping, alternatively there are branches through out the country which you may be able to collect from. This part doesn't seen to be listed on thier web site so you won't be able to get it online. Most parts from Euro Car Parts are genuine parts without the BMW stamp, so you can be assured of the quality.
Hope this helps. And careful not to break a nail!!:PDT_Xtremez_30:
Cheers.
Scooby.
 
Your best bet is to call Euro Car Parts on 0208 956 5050 and quote part number:- 993771091. Confirm this is the correct part, and it should cost you about £40 + VAT & shipping, alternatively there are branches through out the country which you may be able to collect from. This part doesn't seen to be listed on thier web site so you won't be able to get it online. Most parts from Euro Car Parts are genuine parts without the BMW stamp, so you can be assured of the quality.
Hope this helps. And careful not to break a nail!!:PDT_Xtremez_30:
Cheers.
Scooby.

Thanks Scooby (you cheeky get!) - I'll give em a call.

and as an aside, I've just badgered a local tyre fitter into under-cutting Blackcircles.com on some Falken tyres by 20 quid a corner fitted! result. :PDT_Xtremez_14:
 
Scooby, probably a bit of a vuage question but only noticed this last night....

On me Mondeo Zetec 1.8, I've found the engine power drops right off between about 1800 and 2100 revs. Any ideas?
 
Scooby, probably a bit of a vuage question but only noticed this last night....

On me Mondeo Zetec 1.8, I've found the engine power drops right off between about 1800 and 2100 revs. Any ideas?


MAF sensor?

(if mundane-os have such a thing)
 
Scooby, probably a bit of a vuage question but only noticed this last night....

On me Mondeo Zetec 1.8, I've found the engine power drops right off between about 1800 and 2100 revs. Any ideas?

As HB said it could be the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor, this can sometimes be fixed by cleaning it with "brake and Clutch" cleaner spry available from all good motor factors, you must not touch the element, just spray it out. It could also be a lot of other things. The Zetec is a finicky bu66er, has it been serviced recently? They are prone to suffering problems when they are not happy with the oil (either the wrong one or very tired) also check your spark plugs and leads. Leads are a very common fault when the car develops a slight misfire under load, if the plugs and leads are old, then that’s definitely one to look at. When is your cam belt due?? The Zetec timing is extremely precise, so if your cambelt is due in the next 10,000 miles or so I would recommend getting it changed soon, also if its just been done, take it back as they could have cocked it up, just one minuet of a degree can make them run bad. Do you have any strange noises before, during or after the power loss?? Also check your air filter, make sure its clean and not dripping in oil. If there is oil in your air filter then you have a blocked breather. Is the car idling at the right speed? If it is too high you could have a vacuum leak most likely from a small hose approx 7mm dia connecting at one end to the inlet manifold, this will also cause running problems and confuse the ECU.
Hope this helps.
Any more snags, let me know.
Cheers.
Scooby.
 
Theres no strange noises, and it's only really noticable in 5th gear. (not sure if thats because it accelerates through that narrow band)

I'll have a look at the air filter, might be worth looking at the cambelt.... No service history and can't remember when he said he changed it. :PDT_Xtremez_09:

Have to dig out the service I last had done on it, see what they changed. Have noticed overall it's a bit less pokey these days. Not that the missus likes me putting my toe down (at all)!!!

Cheers me ol' china :PDT_Xtremez_30:
 
The symptom you describe is very similar to a very common fault on BMW 2 litre turbo-diesels and is, in the vast majority of cases, the MAF sensor which is to blame. The MAF senses the airflow demands of the engine and tells the ECU how much fuel is required for the power demand - a fault will cause the engine to run lean = power loss under load.

On the BMW sensors, a clean with an aerosol electrical component cleaner (available from maplin etc) sorts the problem out in minutes. (although BMW Main Stealers try all sorts of tricks like 'it's the glow plugs at fault' - Glow Plugs?!? - they're only used to start a diesel [compression ignition] and have no effect on the engine power FFS)

anyhew - have a look at the MAF. I'd be prepared to bet an AMM's daily wage on it.
 
Hang on, BengO, I thought you "Don't do oily bits. I just drive the things and know a good deal from bad" ?????????????????
 
Hang on, BengO, I thought you "Don't do oily bits. I just drive the things and know a good deal from bad" ?????????????????

I don't clean the MAF myself old chap, I get my man to do it for me. :PDT_Xtremez_27:
 
Lucas 16ACR Alternator

Lucas 16ACR Alternator

HI Scooby, a rather embarassing question this time:

I've overhauled my alternator with a refurb kit and now that I've come to re-assemble it, I've realised that I noted all the internal wiring connections except one (doh!!). Does anyone know where the yellow diode wire should connect to?
 
HI Scooby, a rather embarassing question this time:

I've overhauled my alternator with a refurb kit and now that I've come to re-assemble it, I've realised that I noted all the internal wiring connections except one (doh!!). Does anyone know where the yellow diode wire should connect to?

Ok, you got me........... I don't have a clue I'm afraid, I would need to see it. Sorry mate.
Scooby.:PDT_Xtremez_09:
 
Im the proud owner of a very tired Audi A$ im tryin to get to the moon. only 80,000 miles or so to go.

But i've just failed MOT. Cnuts. High carbon monoxide they say. Plugged it in to computery thingy and it says "coolant temp sensor signal implausable".

Its a bit of a leap for me to attach emissions and engine cooling but hey im a fairy. Is there anyone out there who knows better?? should i change this sensor or clean it or look down another avenue??

either way i'm seeking advice before ripping 3 wires out of it (c-shift fairy's versus sumpies private, so called, "joke").

looking forward to your replies.............
 
Respray

Respray

spejla.jpg

Hi Scoobs, Know any1 at Brize that Does spray jobs?, I'm after getting my Kwaka ZX6-r resprayed, Thanks

wobbly a.jpg
 
Just had my X reg Accord returned to me by Mrs Pulfrew, with the immortal words, "Its making a funny noise"

True enough it is! The best way to describe it is it sounds exactly the same as an old Cortina with a knackered diff! (The Memsahib said it sounded like a loud wind in a drainpipe, which it kind of does. She also mentioned it is louder in the morning).

Matches road speed for loudness and doesn't go away when I dip the clutch. It's coming from the front left wheel area, so I jacked it and spun the wheel lots of times. Quiet enough apart from one faint click every few revolutions. Theres no play in the wheel and the steering boots are intact. Nothing is fouling or sticking out in the airflow.

If it had been a Cortina I would have instantly said it was a knackered diff but how does that work on a FWD car?

Thanks in advance

Jim
 
Just had my X reg Accord returned to me by Mrs Pulfrew, with the immortal words, "Its making a funny noise"

True enough it is! The best way to describe it is it sounds exactly the same as an old Cortina with a knackered diff! (The Memsahib said it sounded like a loud wind in a drainpipe, which it kind of does. She also mentioned it is louder in the morning).

Matches road speed for loudness and doesn't go away when I dip the clutch. It's coming from the front left wheel area, so I jacked it and spun the wheel lots of times. Quiet enough apart from one faint click every few revolutions. Theres no play in the wheel and the steering boots are intact. Nothing is fouling or sticking out in the airflow.

If it had been a Cortina I would have instantly said it was a knackered diff but how does that work on a FWD car?

Thanks in advance

Jim
Sorry to but in Scoobs but I had this on one of these a few years ago. On mine I had exactly the same symptoms, tried all kinds but couldn't find it - then at MOT time the inspector advised me that it had passed but I really needed to take a look underneath. He took me to the gearbox end of the driveshaft on the noisy wheel, he got hold of the drive shaft and showed me that there was about a quarter of an inch of play in all quadrants. I guess it needs a new bearing said I - Oh no mate you can't change those you need a new gearbox. Is it legal says I - Yes says he. What will happen if I ignore it? - eventually the driveshaft will fall out and the wheel will fall off says he. Will it make it to the auctions - Yeah probably - and that's exactly where it went.

Funnilly enough about a month ago I saw one stuck halfway round a roundabout with a front wheel collapsed underneath it

Hope your isn't terminal

Hu
 
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Oh Holy Running Batfcuk Robin!

I will be checking that out, and if its the case I will be sad to see it, but its going part ex pronto!

Thanks

Jim
 
must be one of the mechanical bits of the old Accord that was also part of the Rover 400.

Kinda goes against Honda's usual reputation for reliability otherwise.
 
Just had my X reg Accord returned to me by Mrs Pulfrew, with the immortal words, "Its making a funny noise"

True enough it is! The best way to describe it is it sounds exactly the same as an old Cortina with a knackered diff! (The Memsahib said it sounded like a loud wind in a drainpipe, which it kind of does. She also mentioned it is louder in the morning).

Matches road speed for loudness and doesn't go away when I dip the clutch. It's coming from the front left wheel area, so I jacked it and spun the wheel lots of times. Quiet enough apart from one faint click every few revolutions. Theres no play in the wheel and the steering boots are intact. Nothing is fouling or sticking out in the airflow.

If it had been a Cortina I would have instantly said it was a knackered diff but how does that work on a FWD car?

Thanks in advance

Jim

:PDT_Xtremez_14: Ok mate, now for some real gen!!

The chances are it is a wheel bearing. A spent bearing will not always show itself with play. The best way to diag it, is to take a corner at relative speed, try left and right, and see if the noise changes volume at all or goes away, during the corner. If so, it is definatly a wheel bearing.
Hope this helps.
Cheers.
Scooby.
 
Im the proud owner of a very tired Audi A$ im tryin to get to the moon. only 80,000 miles or so to go.

But i've just failed MOT. Cnuts. High carbon monoxide they say. Plugged it in to computery thingy and it says "coolant temp sensor signal implausable".

Its a bit of a leap for me to attach emissions and engine cooling but hey im a fairy. Is there anyone out there who knows better?? should i change this sensor or clean it or look down another avenue??

either way i'm seeking advice before ripping 3 wires out of it (c-shift fairy's versus sumpies private, so called, "joke").

looking forward to your replies.............

Petrol or diesel?? A$ or A4??::P:

Ok. My A4 was using a lot more fuel than it should, so I had it plugged in, and got the same reply as you. I changed the temp sensor and the problem was solved. The reason being the car was remaining on choke and putting more fuel in than it could actually burn, which is not only a waste of fuel but will also turn your emissions reading to absolute fly poo!!
Change the sensor mate, then take the car for a very long run to clear out your cat (cause it will be full of crap) and then take it to MOT whilst it is running nice and hot. All Audi's should run at 90 degrees c, but make sure the cat has had a good heat up before the test.
Good luck with it mate.
Cheers.
Scooby.
 
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